A few months ago we received a remarkable historical artefact that takes us on a fascinating journey through time. It is a diary whose pages bring to life the events between 12 July 1943 and 31 July 1943 at the Saas-Fee holiday camp.  For decades, this diary led a quiet existence, preserved by Ms. L. Kaufmann-Altermatt, a participant of this unforgettable camp. Now it has resurfaced to take us back in time and share in the extraordinary adventures of exactly 80 years ago.

In the summer of 1943, Ms. Klara Freidmann, affectionately called „Müetti“ by everyone, travelled to an idyllic holiday camp in Saas-Fee. Her records, which we have today, take us back to a time when the world was marked by war and uncertainty. But even in these turbulent times, Müetti and her holiday group found solace and adventure in the majestic Swiss Alps.

Today we look at the entry from 28 July 1943, which deals with a very special event: the Allalin ascent. Join us on a fascinating journey into the past as we decode Müetti’s words and bring to life the stories of courage, community and fascination with the snow-capped peaks of the Alps.

Wednesday 28, July 1943

Shortly after 3 o’clock the alarm clock rang. At that moment I heard Vicar Guldimann come to wake us up. I quickly put on my coat and stood at the door, still a little sleepy. I wished you a good morning. Soon everything was alive in the house and after a few minutes we hurried into the church. United with the priest, we prayed the ancient, holy sacrificial prayers in the language of the Church. Lilly and Annemarie were allowed to take over „half“ of the altar server service today: The little bells sounded brightly and powerfully from both of them during the offering, consecration and communion. Bravely they did it! With a prayer of thanks to the dear God who will give us another sunny day and with the priest’s blessing, we stepped out again into the wonderful Valais region.

There is still something to be told here about that dead man whose grave mound bore witness to a dramatic, disgorging scene of our dear Martheli. After breakfast we were joined by the mountain guide Bumann, an military policeman, a teacher Wyss from Olten with his wife and a Miss Probst. It was in this community that we planned to carry out our two-day tour.

What a glorious morning shone from the white-hot heads of the mountain giants: The silvery-white peaks gleamed in the rising sun, while a beautiful purple shadow lay on the glaciers. We climbed the mountain in single file. Everybody was quietly thinking their thoughts and  admired the beauty and unspoiltness of the pure mountain world. All around, these great, lofty mountains greeted us with their rock towers and snow-covered crowns. They showed us a thousand times the dreamlike beauty of this earth, which silently and yet so powerfully proclaims God’s greatness. How lovely, noble and beautiful the many colourful flowers shone in the morning dew, sprouting freely and uncounted from the dark soil. The velvety moss glowed a deep, dark green and wove a soft carpet around the angular rocks. Little waters, rolling down from the regions of the eternal snow, rippled in the warm July sun.

As I stood there completely mesmerized by my surroundings, Martehli suddenly approached me. With a chalk-white face he stood there. The first-aid kit was immediately on hand. I gave him a lump of sugar and balm, and really on top of all that, all that had been plaguing him came out – for the second time!

Now we had arrived at Längfluh, and we stopped here for a snack. Our concerned Vicar Hunziker thought a cup of tea would do no harm. So we made ourselves comfortable in the hut inside. However, we found that the bill that was a little less cosy, but nevertheless, the warm tea had done us good.

Now came an interesting piece that no one is likely to forget. We were roped into lots. After we had been given a few lessons on how to hold the rope, that it should not get wet, etc., the glacier tour began. Here you could already indulge your thoughts less, otherwise you had to pay for it if you didn’t always follow in the same footsteps.

Oops, suddenly one leg sank into the deep snow again, and it often took a lot of effort to swing the balance. Sometimes quite funny scenes took place. „Lucie, next time try to jump a little further!” And Annemarie, who once started to grumble, of course almost couldn’t get up from laughing so hard.

We had been walking across the glacier for three hours now. We had reached our destination for today: In front of us, the Britannia Hut stood out against the dazzling white of the firm snow. Our feet were soaked from all the stomping in the snow. Our first concern was to take off our stockings and shoes. It was a refreshing pleasure, how we shuffled along in these too big wooden shoes. Lilly in particular had a lot of trouble not getting a size 48 and having to „squeeze“ her cute little feet into such colossi of footwear. We made ourselves quite comfortable in the hut. For lunch, a fine Flädli soup was served. One of them helped me to spread the bread, so that in a short time there was not a mountain of snow, but a mountain of spread bread in front of us.

After dinner, everyone retired to the dormitory and not long afterwards a concert sounded from this part of the house that would have been worthy of being broadcast on Radio Beromünster. In different keys, the notes sounded together. Every now and then, a nerve-wracking minor tone in fortissimo drove in between. All in all, one got more and more the pleasant impression that the musicians knew their business and were unsurpassable masters of their instruments. But we slept excellently.

Around 1:30 a.m., the fifth group that did not come to the Allalinhorn set off. The military policeman and a mountain guide took them under their protection. Cheerful waving to each other until those left behind could no longer see those descending.

At 6 o’clock we sat down at the table for dinner. There was soup and minced meat. But really noble in a mountain hut, isn’t it? We sat together for a long time, told each other this and that and cheered one song after the other. It was so beautiful, in the midst of all these snow-covered giants, that we completely forgot to retire until Vicar Hunziker reminded us. After a short night prayer, we crawled onto our camps and soon everything was quiet as a mouse.

In the middle of the night, a rumbling suddenly started. Heavy footsteps of nailed mountain boots could be heard coming closer and closer to our sleeping room. With a jerk, the door flew open, the blinding light of a torch flooded in, and behind it rose a tall, black figure. It was our mountain guide who came to wake us up. 

The clock showed 2 o’clock in the morning. We were soon finished. We hadn’t taken off our clothes yesterday, and in a mountain hut it is not customary to have big toilets. In Mr. Guldimann’s case, the corporal came to the fore again today. His commanding voice echoed over the sleeping crowd and ruthlessly roused them from their sweet dreams: „We made every effort to satisfy the master, but here and there he still tugged at something. When we entered the dining room, there was already steaming cocoa on the table.

At 3 o’clock we could start: we were roped up in front of the hut. Again we used three glacier ropes. With lanterns in hand, we strode out into the clear starry night.  It is almost impossible to describe such beauty. A starry sky arched above our heads. The white mountain peaks stood out clearly & from the dark horizon, illuminated by the calm moonlight.

Deep silence that night, still above the crest of all those mountains that stood so cool and lonely that night. It was as if these mountains were keeping watch over our little country. It seemed as if they were flocking together to form the strong crown of freedom of our homeland, which the almighty hand of the Creator has created.

Gradually the stars faded, and already we spotted the first little red of the rising sun. This red glowed ever larger, ever more beautiful and radiant, until the victorious sun was enthroned like a fiery ball above the peaks. An indescribable splendour unfolded. The white mountains glowed purple. Everything seemed to be drenched in blood. One almost had to intonate the Te Deum out of sheer admiration. But at that moment it was not possible – so we saved it for later.

At 6 o’clock we took a rest. For Lilly it was high time to detach from the rope, otherwise there would almost have been an accident: Not a dangerous one, but an uncomfortable one.

Soon after, the climbing began, which all the children had been looking forward to. I looked up there with somewhat mixed feelings, but it was nowhere near as bad as it looked. Higher and higher we climbed. At 10 o’clock we had reached our destination.

4030 m altitude: It was a very strange feeling when the mountain guide stood at the top with his cap in his hand and congratulated and thanked each one. But our thanks also went to him. We enjoyed a great distant view. Everywhere we looked down on snow-covered summits. Our hearts were light and happy.

On the ascent, everyone had held their own bravely and briskly. A mighty joy flooded our hearts that we had climbed this peak. We had well deserved lunch.

Afterwards, the „Great God, we praise you…“ resounded. and truly, here near the sky, surrounded by a ring of jagged ridges, we felt God’s greatness and omnipotence, which must be worshipped. Lilly began to yodel again. Then the descent began. I will never forget this one for the rest of my life. I wonder if I should write it At least I will reveal that I slid more on my backside than I walked on my feet. If it sounded from the front: „Müetti, got’s?“ always followed the answer: „prima“ and I was already making acquaintance with the snow again, to everyone’s great pleasure. The only consolation I had was that Vicar Hunziker and Heidy, who had taken me into their midst as a precaution, also had to make do with the snow. The children, of course, loved this trip home, as they put it. I, on the other hand, was glad when I felt secure ground under my feet again.

We landed happily in our home port at 1 o’clock in the afternoon.
What a joy it was to see you again: Once again I was able to experience what a beautiful family we had. Those who had returned on the first day had prayed firmly for us that we would have good weather and that nothing would happen. To round off the day, I brewed a good coffee and we ate bread, butter, jam and Gugelhöpfli. Soon the sun disappeared behind the mountains, but it sent us a small ray through the window – a last greeting. Sleep well. God be with you!

Now this beautiful day had come to an end, but it is erased Deep in our hearts it is imprinted, eternally, indelibly.

With heartfelt thanks to God, we went to rest.

With this moving summit experience and the unforgettable memories of the Allalin ascent in 1943, we close this historic diary.

This fascinating tale of Müetti and her brave companions on their ascent in 1943 immersese us in a time full of adventure and moving moments. These unforgettable moments in the majestic Swiss Alps are a testamnet of the human will to conquer nature and apprecitae the beauty of the world.